In my last post, I wrote about the Kizhi pogost. Many of visitors spend a lot of time there and rush to see the rest of exposition, however the greatest attraction of Kizhi is that the old villages(18-19Century) are restored and located all over the island. We can experience the old Russian/Karelian life as if we lived. Today I show you how beautiful the north Russian peasant life is.
前回はキジ島一番の見どころ、木造教会について書きました。ほとんどの観光客は教会群を見るのに精いっぱいで、他の建築物は急ぎ足になってしまいます。でもキジ島の本当の魅力は、島全体が野外民族博物館であること。１８～１９世紀の村が見事に再現され、当時の人々の暮らしをリアルに体感できるのです。今回は北方ロシアの美しい農民文化についてお伝えしようと思います。
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| The Kizhi pogost and Zaonezhie village |
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| Zaonezhie village |
Firstly I went to the sector "Zaonezhie village" nearby the Kizhi pogost and found the big building, The house of peasant Oshevnev(1876). This is the traditional Zaonezhie house with the living and working quarteres built under the same roof. In the severe northern climate, it is a smart design that makes possible for the family to work without going outside. The house is built of pine logs, the exterior is traditional carved details of the balconies, windows and the roof. This outlooking reminded me of Russian fairy tale. From the porch, there were a couple of doors and the tiny stairs leads to the second floor. I entered the lower living room, there were the big white stove, old wooden furniture and linens hung on the wall. I like this simple and warmful interior.
まずは木造教会群のすぐそばにあるZaonezhie地域の村へ。一番に目をひく大きな建物、農民Oshevnevの家です。（1876年）この地域伝統の建築様式、住空間と農作業場がひとつ屋根の下で一体となっているのが特徴です。外に出ずとも農作業できるという極寒地ならではの知恵ですね。丸太を組んだ外壁にはたくさんの窓。窓枠やバルコニー、屋根の周りは美しい木彫りで装飾されています。ロシアのおとぎ話そのままの世界に心ときめきます。玄関に入ると、２～３のドアと２階への階段。まずは１階の大きなリビングルームへ。大きな白いペチカと、使い古した木の家具たち、さりげなく掛けられたリネン。質素だけれど暖かみのあるインテリアです。
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| The house of peasant Oshevnev(1876) |
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| The house of peasant Oshevnev(1876) |
When I was dreaming of the old Russian life, I heard the peculiar sound. The woman demonstrated weaving in the traditional folk costume. In Kizhi island, we can see craftsmen demonstrating traditional village crafts, such as spinning, weaving and stitching. They demonstrated so naturally without any overaction or forced smile, so visitors kept calm not to disturb them.
当時の暮らしに想いを馳せていると、カタンカタン・・と機織りの音が。そう、ここではスタッフが伝統衣装を着て、糸紡ぎや機織り、刺繍などの昔の手仕事を再現しているのです。大げさな演技などなく、愛想もなく、ごく普通に暮らしているかの如くですから、見ている私たちの方が「お邪魔しました～」と少々きまりの悪い思いをするかもしれません。
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| Weaving |
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| Spinning |
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| Russian embroidery |
Then, I visited the sector "Pryazha village", which is the exposition of Karelian's culture. The house of peasant Yakovlev(in the late of 19century) is remarkable. The house is also big and looks similar to Oshevnev's house, but there are some differences. For example, it has partitions divide the house more symmetrically and the interior has traditional rules to be situated. On the upper floor, there were womens in Karelian traditional costumes singing cheerful folk songs while they work. Their faces look peaceful with natural smile, telling me how to enjoy the life.
つぎにPryazha地域の村へ。ここはカレリア人の文化遺産となります。見どころは、農民Yakovlevの家。こちらも大型の住居で、前述のOshevnevの家と良く似ていますが、より左右対称なレイアウトやペチカの位置などにカレリア文化の独自性があるそう。楽しげな歌声に誘われて２階へあがると、伝統衣装を着た女性たちが、編み物などしながら民謡を歌っていました。その自然な表情が、人生をゆったりと大らかに楽しむカレリア人の生活すべてを物語っていました。
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| The house of peasant Yakovlev (the late of 19century) |
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| The house of peasant Yakovlev (the late of 19century) |
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| Karelian women sing folk songs while they work |
The Kizhi island was bigger than my expectation, I spent two days, but it was not enough to see the whole land. On the second day, I tried to walk to the north. There were few tourists and I could see the fantastic secenery like, small villages located in the wide streched grass, the small church and windmill on the hill, the cross on the road. I felt like that I was in the memory of my childhood or in a fairy tale.
それにしても広いキジ島。私は２日間訪れたのですが、とても全ての村を見ることはできません。２日目、残った数時間で少し北上してみました。南北の中間地点まで来ると、観光客の姿はほとんどありません。さらさらと風にゆれる草原に点在する村、丘の上に建つ小さな教会や風車、道中に祭られた十字架。なんだろう・・なにか懐かしいような、絵本の中にいるような。不思議な感覚にとらわれました。
Before leaving, the weather turned into chilly cloudy even in Summer. I bumped into the girl who had just finished her work, she was accrossing the path. Her old blue dress made a nice contrast with the gray sky. Suddenly this scenery overlapped my image of old Russia. I experienced the wonderful trip to meet the original Russia which I have been seeking.
最後は少し天候が崩れ、夏だというのに寒そうな曇り空。そこに家路を急ぐ少女が横切りました。さっきまで糸紡ぎを手伝っていた少女です。グレイな空を背景に、鮮やかなブルーの古めかしいワンピース。ああ、これこそロシアの原風景だな・・と直感的に感じました。モスクワに住み始めてからずっと、探し求めたロシアに出会えた旅でした。
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